Tet Nguyen Ðan (literally, ”Festival of the First Day”), to give it its full name, falls on the first new moon after January 20 each year (the date this year is January 28) and is the country’s New Year celebration. I feel gently admonished by them, in a way that makes me aware of how complicated my trip to Vietnam for Tet is going to be. Flying above the paddies as my plane approaches the Vietnamese capital, I see 30-year-old bomb craters, grown over with emerald rice, dimpling the landscape like immense bowls. The main road into Hanoi from the airport runs straight as a seam through the brocade of rice paddies along the Red River.
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